![]() ![]() ![]() Psu i have used the ultralight drywall at home depot when i converted my loft into a bedroom and my father in law used it in his garage when we built a tray ceiling so the chevelle could go all the way up on the lift and park the vette under it. Use a medium density foam or blow-in, not low density with inherent convective loops Ĭover to protect the radiator fittings from "Whoops".īuild a "chute" outside the window to the wheelbarrow below, if on second floor- I'm to old for stairs. Remove lath, if wood, with same flat nosed long-handled shovel you used on plaster so you don't have to stand directly under the work for free lunch. Plastic and old carpet, painters drops, tarps, on the floor with a final covering of 4' square tarps, over-lapping each by 2", drop the plaster, pull up the corners on each tarp, drop into can, etc. Don't want to rip the window jambs/head because you forgot to plan ahead. Rough cut original studs/joists with wood lath had varying thickness of plaster to make the final finish flat- the studs are not, use a 6' level as a straightedge. Take precautions working with lead based paint on the woodwork = no sanding.Īfter demo, check at the window/door for proper thickness drywall = 1/2' with many cardboard shims from the box stores to bring the wall/ceiling to a flat plane. Have a container dropped off and have fun.Ĭut the paint at the window/door casings and stool before carefully removing, to re-use later. Get all the grunt dirty work out of the way. Now is the time to do all your demo since you are not living in the house. Once completely removed you will have the opportunity to repair any water damage, straighten walls, run new electrical, install insulation. It will capture some debris and will keep good relations with your neighbor. Spray as you go and install one of those cheap square box fans in the window with a cheap 24" square blue filter on the backside. It will be money well spent and you will use them for all your remodel work.Īnother demo trick to hold down dust is to use spray bottles adjusted to a fine mist. Purchase good masks with replaceable filters. ![]() It's very dusty nasty work and don't cheap out on the lung protection. I've found that removing the plaster in the largest chunks possible works well, then remove the lath last so you can bundle it. Yep, it's nasty demo work but when it's all behind you it's well worth it. The finished rooms turned out very good, but a lot of work to get there. His had plaster ceilings which, Thank Goodness, were not damaged so we left those alone. We added 6" thick fiberglass, then the drywall over that, hanging horizontally. The insulation on the exterior walls was just old newspaper crumpled up and stuffed in there. Then we just tore off what was left on the studs. I cut between the studs, on 24" centers by the way, and removed large hunks of material. The best thing I found to remove the walls was a carbide grit tipped blade for my "Saw-zall" which would cut through the plaster and the metal lathing, and do many cuts. These plaster walls were based on the metal lathing. ALL wall studs were true 2 x 4's, rough cut. ![]() We decided to remove the plaster rather than attempt any repairs as the damage was extensive. Re: Your question-My son bought a house built in 1921 which had the same problems in some rooms. First: I have not seen those particular inter-locking ceiling tiles in years, Grandpa's house had them as did many other homes in that neighborhood. ![]()
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